Kit includes everything you need to mount a submersible pump in order to pump effectively from a lake, pond or river and provides for easy mounting of our Ultimate filter or you can create your own homemade filter device to fit this mounting assemble. Filtration is important not only for house use and irrigation, but also for the pumps themselves and particularly for submersible pumps because of their use of high speed turbine impellers easily worn by pumping debris and particles through the pump.
This lake pump kit completely encapsulates and protects the sub pump and wiring. Can be allowed to sit on pond or river bed, or can be suspended above bottom from dock or other structure or float. Complete waterproof wiring supplies, provision for homemade or commercial intake filter, well seal for pressure line, PVC Fittings, outer 4 inch casing for sub pump and reducer bushing, and easy-to-follow step-by-step instructions are all included. This kit is set up for do-it-yourselfers needing a professionally designed easy-to-install solution to installing a submersible pump in a lake, pond or river to solve a higher lift situation impossible to handle using a jet or centrifugal shore-mounted pump.
The Submersible Lake Pump Mounting Kit includes:
- One 4 inch x 2 inch Well Seal
- One 44 inch long piece of 4 inch foam core PVC Pipe
- One 4 inch Slip Coupler
- One 4 inch x 2 inch Reducer Bushing - Slip x Slip
- One 8 inch long 2 inch PVC Pipe
- One 2 inch standard Schd 40 PVC Male Adapter (slip x male thread)
- One 2 inch Slip Coupler
- One 2 inch x 1 inch Reducer Mounting Assembly - 2 inch slip x 1 inch Schd 80 M Thread
- Four Heat Shrink Waterproof Wire Connectors (2 wire pumps will only need 3)
- Step-By Step Instructions
Four inch submersible type well pumps intake water from a side inlet, located about half way up the side of the pump itself, where the liquid-end joins the actual motor, so no filter can screw onto the pump itself. However, this kit allows you to mount a filter on an enclosed pump housing that is designed to work with or without a filter attached.
Bring a 2 inch pressure line down to the pump location. Even if you normally use a smaller diameter Pressure Line, use two inch pipe for the section of pressure line going into the lake for pump mounting purposes. This has more to do with pump mounting stability than anything else.
Work the 4 inch x 2 inch Well Seal onto the 2 inch pipe and position it several feet away from the end of the pipe, so it will be out of your way, do not tighten it at this time.
Important - remember the kit is intended primarily to be used in a horizontal mounting situation, but can also be used to vertically mount a pump under a dock or in a reservoir tank in a vertical position. If this is the case, it is particularly important to install a coupler on your 2 inch pump discharge line after positioning your pump in the 4 inch tube. You'll want the pump to hang freely in the tube with the weight of the pump resting on the coupler and well seal. This coupler will prevent pump vibration from allowing the pump and pressure line to slowly slip down through the well seal further into the tube until the end of the pump blocks water access through the 2 inch intake pipe. The pump should always have a clearance of at least 3/4 inch between the end of the pump itself and the intake pipe end (bottom) of the Mounting Kit Assembly to allow for free flow of water through the 2 inch intake pipe into the 4 inch tube to feed the pump.
Cement the 2 inch coupler onto the end of the 2 inch pressure line PVC pipe (AFTER you already have the pressure line run through the well seal. Cement either the 1 inch or 1 1/4 inch Reducer Mounting Assembly (depending upon outlet size of your pump) into the coupler you have already glued onto your pressure line. The Reducer Mounting Assembly consists of a 2 inch reducer bushing and either a one inch or 1 1/4 inch threaded schedule 80 nipple that will screw into your pump's discharge outlet. If your pump fits neither size, you may have to adjust by purchasing additional fittings locally from a Home Depot or hardware store.
Screw the pump tightly onto the Reducer Mounting Assembly using pipe dope or teflon tape to seal the threads from leakage, securely mounting the pump onto the 2 inch pressure line.
Feed the pump electrical pigtail wires through the appropriate (larger) hole in the well seal. later you may want to use the plumbers putty provided, silicone or caulking compound to seal around the wires where they go through the hole. Snug the well seal down into the tube and tighten securely.
Now do the waterproof heat shrink splices for the pump wiring, using the heat-shrink connectors provided, or other waterproof electrical splice connections, to connect pump pigtails directly to your three 220 volt electrical power source wires if you are using a 2 wire (with ground) pump, or to your 4 control box wires if your are using a 3 (with ground) Pump and Control Box. Be careful to do your heat shrinks slowly using a torch and work from the center outward until use see a small bead forming all the way around the two ends of each splice. This task is critical to get right for pump performance.
When Sliding the 4 inch PVC Pipe over the pump and positioning the pump to install well seal, be sure the end of the pump doesn't stick too far down into the tube so that it can possibly butt up against the filter end intake and block that intake. To assure this doesn't happen, you should tighten the well seal securely and it is also helpful to tape (electrical tape) multiple layers around the pressure line where it enter the well seal. The tape will prevent the pump from working forward over time and blocking the intake tube.
Check and tighten the Well Seal, being sure it is fully seated before tightening. Note - the well seal should be insalled tightly to help prevent pressure line slippage.
Cement the short piece of 2 inch PVC water intake pipe into the 4 inch x 2 inch reducer bushing (opposite end of pipe from well seal), checking first to make sure there is at least a 3/4 inch clearance between the end of the pump and the intake pipe fitting. The one foot long 2 inch pipe is now sticking out of the reducer bushing and can be used as a water intake pipe with or without mounting a filter on it, depending upon the clarity of your water source. If particulates exist in your water source, you are advised to use a filter to protect your pump and your entire water system.
Optional - cement the second 2 inch male adapter onto the stubbed out 2 inch PVC water intake pipe. Note - you may want to substitute a different fitting if you are not using one of our Ultimate Filters, in order to adapt to your filter's outlet.
Screw the filter having a 2 inch female threaded fitting right onto the 2 inch male adapter to complete your assembly - Teflon Tape isn't needed. If you need to modify any aspect of this design, you can use any standard PVC Fittings to accomplish that.
Before placing the completed assemby out into your lake, river, tank or pond, you should use electrical tape to wrap around the electrical wire and pressure line every 3 feet, taking care to locate the electrical wire on the bottom of the pipe where it will not be exposed. Once complete you can place your assembly into the water source... and don't worry, it'll sink like a rock.
If you choose not to use the Ultimate Filter, another filtration source or well point filtration should be used and can easily be adapted to your lake pump mounting assembly.
When cementing fittings, be sure to work on a solid surface so you can push the fitting all the way in after applying cement to BOTH surfaces. Twist the fitting as you push it in to be sure the cement spreads well between the two surfaces being cemented.
Since the Pump Mount Assembly Pipe is 4 foot long and so is the Filter, your entire assembly will be 8 foot long. We realize this may create a problem with water depth if you are suspending the pump set-up from a dock or boathouse vertically, due to possible shallow depth of water. To allow the flexibility of having the pump hang vertically with the filter installed horizontally, you may have to obtain an extra 12 inch long PVC Pipe section, and you can elbow to the side using any common 2 inch PVC Elbow. This will allow you to elbow the filter off to the side if water depth or other circumstances require. The pump and or filter are both quite happy running in either a vertical or horizontal configuration. Be sure however that your water depth is deep enough (minimum 18 full inches of water over the pump and filter) so that whirlpools don't develop when the pump operates. If water is shallow (less than 18 inches over intake or filter) and you see development of whirlpools, check to make sure your pump isn't sucking air through those whirlpools. Whirlpools are usually a sign of the pump sucking air because of inadequate depth of water source. Digging a pit in a shallow water source to lower the pimp assembly may eliminate the problem. Also keep in mind that if you mount your pump vertically, it is intaking water at a point almost half way up the side of the tube. A sub pump takes in water from the side, with the intake located half way up the side of the pump.
This Lake Pump Mounting Assembly is a method we have perfected over the years through trial and error, and it has worked very effectively and dependably for us.
However, a good filtration system is always a wise investment, as the main cause of failure with a pump and the downstream irrigation equipment it serves, is inadequate or ineffective filtration. We always recommend the Ultimate Filter as an ideal partner to our Lake Pump Mounting Kit, but your pump and irrigation can also work effectively with a well-designed homemade screen filtration set-up. Be sure you do not however, restrict the suction ability of the pump by installing a smaller than adequate filtration set-up that restricts water flow to pump suction intake.